The town of Nelson is one of the most beloved destinations in British Columbia’s Kootenay region. Despite its popularity, Nelson has retained the charm and heritage of a small mountain town, preserving the look and feel of its roots while also allowing for local business and culture to thrive and outdoor recreation to flourish. It is one of those unicorns that you can travel to and get a full experience while still feeling like you are in the middle of nowhere, and not overrun with tourists.
Getting There A town of 10,000, Nelson is located in the Selkirk Mountains on the West Arm of Kootenay Lake. No matter your starting point, a road trip to Nelson is part of the experience. This scenic drive through the diverse ecosystems of the province makes for an interesting and intriguing journey. With sharp changes in weather, landscape and vegetation, there is no shortage of natural pit stops and viewpoints to take in along the way.
Eight hours from Vancouver, six hours from Kamloops or four hours from Kelowna, the drive could lead you through coastal rainforest, the Okanagan desert and into the dense forests and mountains of the Kootenays. The ancient old-growth forests of the Nelson and Kootenay Lake region showcase have measuring five metres wide at their base. As part of the last-remaining inland temperate rainforest on earth, wildlife thrives here, including everything from southern mountain caribou, to rare lichens, black and grizzly bears and salmon streams aplenty, despite being hundreds of kilometres away from the ocean. This ecosystem, known as the “Kootenay Mix,” is a rainforest lover’s dream and a paradise for mountaineering, trail running, mountain biking, hiking, skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing.
History The rise of Nelson came when rich mineral deposits of copper and silver were found at Toad Mountain and the boom of the mining industry began. In the late 1800s, the Silver King Mine brought hundreds of prospectors to the area, eventually leading to the incorporation of Nelson in 1897. As the industry continued to grow, the transformation of the town did too. From modest cottages and temporary structures, came stone and brick buildings, architecturally designed homes and commercial facilities. More than 350 of these buildings remain in use today with heritage sites recognized throughout the town.
By 1914, Nelson became an epicenter for the growing region with offices for the Canadian Pacific Railway, Canada Customs, Central Post Office and a Supreme Court. As well, opportunities were growing in many other industries including a city-owned hydroelectric plant on the Kootenay River at Bonnington, a waterfront sawmill, boat works, CPR shipyard and multiple factories such as sash and door, mattress and box. By the 1960s, Nelson was home to numerous post-secondary educational institutions including Notre Dame College, Kootenay School of Art and the BC Vocational School (that became, Selkirk College), and today includes a Chinese Medicine School, the Kutenai Art Therapy Institute and Kootenay Columbia College to name a few.
Things to Do
Baker Street The prosperity that Nelson was built on is part of culture and roots today. Nelson’s downtown is a destination on its own. A collection of artisans, boutiques, cafes, restaurants, galleries and shops—all local and independent—is a refreshing reprieve from the chains and box stores that have taken over so many cities. While many of the buildings are heritage storefronts, the businesses inside have a modern and cosmopolitan feel. Often times, the buildings still feature the original signage, including the old newspaper and press shop that is now home to a funky vintage clothing store.
Baker Street is the lively centre of Nelson’s core. An awesome selection of cafes, restaurants and breweries line the street for with flavour or scene you are craving. Some patios remain open in winter, creating a perfect apres-ski stroll-through-town experience. There are many historical buildings and storefronts to admire, as well as sculptures, murals and other public artworks installed both along Baker Street and in the neighbouring alleys.
One ritual for many locals is the walk up Ward Street for a cup of coffee at the Oso Negro Café, which is located in a fun building and features a little rock garden utopia where you can zen-out while you sip an amazing cup of coffee. Oso Negro opened in the 1990s and showcases dozens of local artists, reflecting the creative nature of the community and people.
Rotary Lakeside Park This iconic beach park is a coveted hangout in summer months, but it’s a wonderland in the winter season too. With stunning views across the lake and morning fog as a backdrop to bright white snow, this park looks like a Christmas card. Located at the base of the landmark orange bridge, you can also enjoy a sandy beach, promenade, playground and picnic tables.
Pulpit Rock Offering exercise with a view, the infamous hike of Pulpit Rock is one of the most popular treks in town. Legend has it that this hike has had locals climbing for nearly a century. This is a 3.5-kilometre round trip that takes you up 325 metres for a gorgeous vista of the city and West Arm of Kootenay Lake. It’s a solid workout with switchbacks all the way up to the scenic lookout point. Keep going higher to the Flagpole, for a 5.8-kilometre roundtrip hike and an epic view of the river valley. The trail has constant upkeep and maintenance, but it’s recommended to keep an eye on conditions and closures, especially in the off season.
Winter Sports With terrain rising to over 3,000 metres and geologically older than the neighbouring Rocky Mountains, the mountains of the Kootenay region get over 18 metres of snowfall every year and are one of the best places for snow sports in the province. Downhill, cross-country, cat and heli skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing, and indoor and outdoor skating are just some of the favourite pastimes in winter months. The Whitewater Ski Resort, just 25 minutes from downtown Nelson, is a world-class ski destination that still enjoys a laid-back reputation.
Nelson and its surrounding mountains are considered part of the “Powder Highway” (see the feature in this issue), which a route through the Kootenay Rockies known for deep snow, adventure packed ski resorts and funky towns.
With 12 metres of snow annually, a lodge base of 1,646 metres and 81 runs to pick from, Whitewater is perfect for the powder connoisseur. Beyond the epic skiing, the resort also offers Nordic skiing, snowshowing and fat biking. There are tons of amenities and attractions including a full-service lodge, pub and cafes. Try and catch the Coldsmoke Powder Festival in mid-February, which is a three-day celebration of ski and snowboard culture with clinics, competitions and arts and culture programming both in Nelson and at the resort.
Daytrip to Kaslo Only an hour’s journey from Nelson is the community of Kaslo. Similar to Nelson, Kaslo was also a gold and silver mining hub in the late 1800s, and the community has preserved its historic charm, including the attraction of the world’s oldest intact sternwheeler, the SS Moyie.
The scenic route along the Kootenay Lake Road makes this an awesome day trip. You may even see the Kootenay Lake Ferry enroute to Balfour as you drive. Once in Kaslo, it’s a quaint wander around town to see shops and restaurants or use the time to explore the outdoor recreation, where Kaslo is known for its network of beautiful cross-country ski trails.
If you time your trip for the third weekend in February, Kaslo hosts the iconic Winter in the Forest Festival, which includes street hockey, cross-country skiing (skis provided), snow painting, local musicians and entertainment, a woodsmen skills competition, human dogsled races and everyone’s favourite maple syrup on snow.
On the way back, warm up at the Ainsworth Hot Springs. The Ktunaxa First Nations discovered these hot springs and used the nupika wu’u for healing restoration after days of hunting, fishing and gathering. The Ainsworth Hot Springs opened in the 1930s and continues to be a popular place for rejuvenation. The waters at the Ainsworth Hot Spring are around 47ºC and are cooled to an average of 42 degrees for the 150-foot horseshoe caves and 35 degrees at the main lounging pool.
Explore some of our other favourite winter destinations like Revelstoke and Invermere.
